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Monthly Archives: March 2017

Plan Outdoor Saunas

Consider the dimensions of the building to be used first. Let the sauna occupy an area of less than 10′ X 10′ so as to avoid having to acquire a building permit as is the case if a hundred square feet are exceeded. However, verification of this information with your local building-inspection authority can be done so as to be sure. The best dimensions to use are 8′ X 12′ which will allow you to have three rooms in your sauna: the entry as well as storage room for your wood used as fuel for the sauna, a changing room as well as the sauna itself. Let the sauna’s height be less than seven feet to avoid wastage of heat. Having a smaller room ensures more efficient heating as well as allowing the use of a smaller heater and smaller circuit breakers within your panel.

The layout of the room is also very important. For a better layout of the benches to be used, have the heater and the door on a long wall adjacent to each other. Allow six feet in at least one direction of your sauna if you like lying down in it The bench layout is normally 19″ for the depth and height is 38″ for the upper bench and 19″ for the lower bench. Shorter doors, with an opening of 26″ X 78″ encompassing both frame and door, are also used for the purposes of conserving heat within the sauna. The doors should also always to the outside of the sauna, never to the inside.

The sauna’s interior should be made from cedar, which does not discolor as opposed to many other types of wood although a sealant is still recommended. Cedar is also stable as opposed to other types of wood which swell and shrink under different temperatures. Using wood with knots could possibly cause burns in a sauna and thus it is important to obtain clear wood for your sauna’s interior.

Outdoor saunas also require to be well insulated and have a good source of heat energy. Insulation with a minimum R-Factor of R-11 for the walls and R-19 for the ceiling can be used Using fibreglass bats is essential. Do not use polystyrene foam board since gases such as formaldehydes will be given off by the boards when exposed to the sauna’s higher temperatures.

Heat energy in outdoor saunas tends to be provided by a wood-burning sauna heater. Ensure the chimney is well installed and passes the inspection by the local authority for proper dissemination of smoke from the wood. Also, it is not advised to buy an outdoor infrared heater if you plan on using your outdoor sauna all year round since they, the outdoor infrared heaters, do not work in winter.

Proper flow of air is a necessity in a sauna so as to ensure the users have a good supply of oxygen and also to prevent the fire from burning itself out This requires introducing fresh air which can either be supplied by leaving an air space of about 1″ between the floor and the bottom of the sauna’s door or by installing a non-adjustable vent in the wall under the heater. An adjustable exhaust vent should also be installed on the wall opposite to the vent holding incoming air so as to ensure proper air circulation and equal heat distribution. The exhaust vent can be installed anywhere from 48″ to 54″ from the sauna’s floor. The exhaust vent should have sliding doors to control the amount of air allowed into the room. It is advisable to place this vent within arm’s reach of your upper bench so you can adjust air circulation from the bench as you relax.

Using aluminium foil vapour barrier, rather than conventional polyethylene in residential constructions is also advised. Seal the aluminium foil vapour barrier by using aluminium foil adhesive duck tape for good results. Drape the foil loosely around the corners as it will shrink with the heating and the cooling. Don’t stretch it out like conventional polyethylene.

A drain in outdoor saunas tends to be unnecessary since only enough water to be converted to vapour is required to be poured on the rocks. If water pools on the floor then excess water is being used However, a drain can be installed if you plan to wash down the sauna often.

Ground Pool

The first thing you need to do is gather your pool closing supplies.These include the pool cover, the plugs for the skimmers, the winterizing chemicals and the air pillow (or tires, tubes, balls, etc that will break up the ice expansion and save your pool walls from damage). Once you have located all of these supplies, you can start winterizing the pool.

The first task is to backwash the filter to get all the dirt and grunge out. If you have a sand filter you’ll want to leave the drain plug off for the duration. With DE filter tanks, leave the backwash valve open. Anything you take off you’ll want to store in the pump basket or other safe spot till next summer. Next, plug all return pipes and take out all hoses. Disconnect the pump and filter, make sure they are free of water and store them in a dry place like the garage over the winter.

Plug the skimmer hole with a black rubber plug or alternatively you can drain the pool water so that it sits below the skimmer hole so there’s no need to plug it at all. Next, blow up your air pillow and toss it into the remaining water. Whatever you use for this step should be secured so that it sits in the middle of the pool. Remember you are using it to stop the water from freezing and breaking the pool walls.

Now you are ready to take any deck equipment from the area. This means ladders, slides, rails of any kind that need to be stored somewhere warm and dry during the winter months so they don’t get ruined. Now it’s time to add the winterizing chemicals. If you are using the liquid kind simply dump it in, but if you are using the granular kind, make sure you mix it in a bucket first so you don’t have globs forming on the bottom of the pool.

Spa Pool Indoors

There is a set of requirements, which have to be met, in order for a spa pool to be installed indoors. Firstly, you need to have sufficiently large space for the pool. You have to be able to run the required piping and cabling. You need to check with an architect and an engineer whether and how the facility can fit.

You have to provide for proper drainage as well. The floor must be waterproof, slip-resistant and easy to clean. This is necessary since approximately three litres of water spill out of a standard-sized pool of this type when people get out.

Since the water inside typically has higher temperature compared to the air temperature in the room, you have to provide effective ventilation. Most indoor spaces will require one vent fan, but other solutions may be appropriate as well. Even with good ventilation steam will still come out of the pool and fill the room. Given this, the room must have walls which do not absorb water and which are resistant to water damage and mould. In order to minimise the amount of steam which comes out, you can heat the room.

You can choose to set up a traditional spa pool indoors or a portable model. The portable model seems to be the easier solution as you can set it up in any room of the house with sufficient free space. However, you will have to deal with the setup more frequently. Besides, you sill have to ensure that the flooring, walls and ventilation are as required. The setup of a fixed model requires more time and effort and a larger investment, but once it is ready for use, it will require only maintenance. Furthermore, you can expect the whole system to be more reliable and durable as well.

One alternative to setting a spa pool indoors is to build a special enclosure for this facility. The enclosure will be built especially to meet the requirements outlined above. It can be connected directly to the house. It can also have extra features such as sliding roof. This option may be more cost-efficient compared to the indoor setup.

Types of Pool Filters

· DE pool filter: DE which stands for Diatomaceous Earth, is by far the most popular filter on the market. This is because it is the most efficient. The filter uses a powder to assist in the filtration process. This powder is made from the skeletons of Diatoms, an ancient sub-aquatic creature. This might sound bizarre but these skeletons are like tiny sponges. Which is why they are so efficient at being able to pick up the dirt that is filtered through. The powder gets dissolved as soon as it is added to the skimmer and floats down to the filter tank. Once it reaches the grid it sticks to the nylon fabric attached and coats the grid.

· Cartridge filter: this filter is normally used in small pools and even Jacuzzi’s. The filter, literally has a cartridge in side of it that is capable of picking up dirt that is 25-100 microns in size. It is simple to maintain and all you need to do is keep an eye on the pressure gage. As soon as it reaches 3.5kg-5kg over the clean mark you will need to take it out and clean it thoroughly with a hose at a high pressure, then put it back. Eventually you will need to replace the cartridge in its entirety.

· Sand filter: these filters offer the least amount of maintenance which is a major plus. The sand filter uses sand to catch the dirt and the more dirt that is captured the more efficient it becomes. Once it has reached about 5kg over the cleaning gage it will be necessary to do a back wash. In most cases you will only need to replace the sand every 5 years, which is why it is a popular choice if you want to have a low maintenance pool.